1  2  3

under construction

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   
Day 16                    We get up early. The morning on the border is unbelievable – I mean the view of Parinacota over the Chungara lake with flamingos. There are many people in lines, on toilets, we leave as soon as possible. We jump into the bus and we come to Bolivian part of the border. We fill up the border-tickets and we exchange money from old woman, who serves as exchange office. We want to begin this day with bath in Sajama village in small natural thermal lake. There is no regular transport to village, but we are lucky, we get a lift from Cesar - young boy, who has came to pick up some American boys. They are students of agronomy and they came to Bolivia for intership. Tiny village of Sajama is pleasent, with dusty roads, old restaurant and simple houses. It´s dangerous to climb volcanos in this period, therefore we do only the bath in near termal lake . It´s very nice there – green bofedalos with lamas, small house and mountains all around. We sit in shallow lake in hot water, with foot dipped into the mud, we eat peaches and we look at 6000 m high volcanos. Then we have some food and we go back to frontier. There we solve the problem of transport to La Paz with other  sun-burnt men with bags and old women with colored backpacks. We pay to jefe with small van and we soflty glide the wet road to La Paz. Landscape is strange – only grass, rocks and mountains on horizon. We come to principal road and we want to continue to Tupiza though Oruro. But there are about 50 Bolivians with the same intention, we try to push through the crowd to bus, but we are not enough skilful in this discipline. We decide to go back to La Paz, but there is no bus in this evening heading south and we have to spend the night in Residencial Uruguay – it´s not better than it sounds. We go for a walk into the city, there is a changing of president guard with music, food and plenty of people.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              
Day 17                    This day is quite sauceless. After culinary excess on market of La Paz we visit some shops with colored covers, pan pipes, charangos and other pleasent things. Žilo visits a medicinman – curandero. It sun-drenched quite narrow street in the house with thick walls behind the heavy iron door sits a Bolivian witch-doctor with certicate of competence above his head. But he doesn´t speak English, nor Slovak and the Exchange of views doesn´t last long time. About eleven o´clock we get into bus. We go to Tupiza through Oruro passing the once seen land. It´s not easy to sleep in old noisy bus skipping on the road of poor quality. But the old grandmama who maked her bed on big sacks in baggage space in the bottom of bus – she jumpes out from the bus in Tupiza fresh and young .
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
Day 18                    But the next day is one of the best. Early in the morning we walk in empty town, which just slowly gets up. After braskfast we hire two slim horses with bad hair and we go to explore the beautiful surroundings south of Tupiza, land of Butch Cassidy and SUndace Kidd. Our guide is 18 years old Clemente with blue cap who just „poco“ speaks english. We have never rode the horse, but they are fortunataly restful. At first we just walk, but after our complain of low velocity Clemente whistles and the horses begin to gallop. You have to hold firmly or fall down. Initially it´s horor, but then funny after few kilometers. We visit devil´s gate and marvelous valleys with colorful mountains, with rocky towers, green bushes and big cactuses. It´s hard to write about it, you have to visit it. After 25 km we come to small village, where Clemente and his family live. Village with houses made of unburnt bricks with plenty of house animals and with dusty roads. Simple but dramatic life of Bolivian countryside.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            
Day 19                    After our breakfast prepared by family we go back the same way, because there is too much of water in the river and we can´t cross it. We and our horses relax beside the river slumbering on green grass field. Then we visit other valleys (Vale de los Machos) and devil´s gate. It´s raining when we are galloping in the streets of Tupiza and we finish our perfect horse riding tour. When I jump down on the ground, I am pretty satisfied not to have any accident. What to do now. . . ? We try to go to sauna, but it works only for 15 people and only on Sunday. Therefore we walk behind the town to canyon El Kaňon - it´s absolutely amasing. Red valley with stone and rocky towers. Colours are marvelous and the cotrast of late afternoon is strong. In the town I burn photos on CD again and then we eat the stake prapred by slowed-down monk in one homy restaurant. Then prying we take the night  bus, that looks like very old to Tarija. I begin my long bus-marathon                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Argentina

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
Day 20                    Morning in Tarija. Hot and dump. In the park, just in the front of bus terminal we sort our equipment. It´s time to disjoin – Tomas goes to jungle - Villamontes, Santa Cruz, Rurrenbeque. I will need much more things - tent, burner, drugs, bigger backpack. I am heading south according on our primary plan – Aconcagua and Lake District in Chile. I forget to take purification pills for water and mittens. Never mind. In six hours I am in Bermejo. Pleasent climate of Altiplano is gone, 35°C of temperature and jungle all around. I cross the border, both border-offices are quit far apart and in the heat of midday I have to go back and forth, because I was not given the exit stamp. I get mad from this ordering and nearly unconscious from dehydratation of walking on red-hot asphalt road. Then I take the bus from Aquas Blancas to Orán, in which a gang of tattooed men with wild eyeview, dirty T shirts, ball in their cheeks and big bags travel with aproval of Mr. Kállay, who decided to spend a few years of his life in this territory acting as o bus ticket chopper. He wears red T-shirt but truly he supervise the local planters and smugglers and so having control of most of coca production in this calm region. Orán. I jump from bus to another, for a change I shiver of cold in well air-conditioned bus. Salta. Choripan – sausage in sandwich with vegetable and spice. First, second, third. But none of them was so tastful like those two years ago that I ate in the front of boxing-hall. Tomorow I will be in Mendosa this time. I sleep second night in the bus, but now in full comfort with supper, koffee, pillow and cover.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
Day 21                    I wake up in region of Catamarca, but the road go off the mountains, which are only hardly to see. The land is again drier, the tries decrease, but the climate is more pleasant. We come in the evening to Mendosa. Mendoza is the greenest and therefore the most beautiful town I have seen. There are big trees on both sides of every street in downtown and every plaza is like garden. But now I have to search for some equipment. Plastic boots and crampones cost 70 US$ for three weeks. I hope I can manage without it.  It´s too late to buy food. I go to sleep to small hostel, there is rampage in the night when people come from disco. Acocnagua is waitnig.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
Day 22                    In the morning I get up early, quickly I pack my things and equipment and I go to town. I am in hurry because I want to sleep this night in Confuencia. Firstly I buy the permit for Aconcagua (300 US$ for 3 weeks), then I buy some cans with gas and then food. I have to buy 6 breads, grilled chicken, tons of tuna, sardine and crappy sweets because there is nothing else in Carefour. There is no meat or sausage can. It will be horrible to eat this poor food ten days. I take the bus to Puente Inca – I have to stand, although I have the ticket buyed a day before. The Inca spa under the natural bridge is closed for turist now. I meet some Czechs who sit in pub and look through the foam of beer toward Aconcagua. They began with Cotopaxi, but here they were caught by freeze under the summit. They give me some advice, but I don´t take the mulas. My backpack wighes 30 kilograms. But I wear the tent and sleeping bag in hands. It will be tough, but then I can move easy without the load. At half past four I leave Puente Inca and very very slowly I walk up. I check the people about the conditions and I meet more succesful solo-climbers. I am not interested in bigger groups. Everyone remarks the necessity of crampones. But no one uses purification pills. I know the trail, because I made the two-days trek to Confuencia and Plaza Franzia two years ago. That time I hadn´t thought to come back so early with such ambition. Vally of Aconcagua is marvelous – colorful hills are all around, the bottom of valley is green with grass and all the time of ascent you look at southern white face of Aconcagua. Confuencia is closer than two years ago – before the descent to the river. I come there in the dark at nine o´clock. I don´t pitch the tent. I am realy tired. But I am not dizzy of drinking wine the night before like last time.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
Day 23                    I get up quite early and without retard I move off. It will be hard today. 25 km and 1000 m of ascent. The air is clear, the valley is warm and fascinating. There is short ascent after crossing the river and then long long flat valley – with grass on the ground in the begining, then just rocky plain and slopes. Red, yellow, grey and orange hills, some with cap of snow. I march eleven hours and the final ascent before Base camp (4300 m.) is terrible. I am more tired than I thought and hope I don´t get mountain-sickness. But I should be well aclimatised from Bolivia and I take only some analgetics. In Base Camp I meet Zbyňek who stood on the summit this day. He lend me his crampones and thereby solves my biggest trouble. But he doesn´t know to see them last time thanks to Aero Sur. Hot soup is much more better then tuna or remains of chiceken – it´s paid in US$ - for tent place, water and toilet as well. 
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
Day 24                    Third day of ascet I relax in part. I only carry up the things that  I don´t need now to Canada camp (5000 m.). It´s also exhausting and neverending, but it takes me only two and half hours actually. There are couple of tents, the place behind the sharp-edged rock offers extensive views. I leave the thing among the rocks hoping not to get them lost.  Sliding in rocky downhill I am back in Base camp in half hour. The rest of the day I relax. The camp is large, there are more companies with own tents, water, toilets. The bigger ones offer special service – satelite telephone, galery of modern art, hot shower. There is a heliport and medicians checking everyone´s health state. Everyday they have to send down some people with mountain-sickness by helicoptere. There are poeple from all over the world, many of them in high-lab dress pretending to be mountaineers. There is silence in the evening - without the gitar and singing.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              
Day 25                    After the long sleep I feel really good, just mild headache reminds me to walk slowly without the yesterday´s impatience. I take all  my things and slowly I walk up to Canada. All my things left there are untouched. I take them and I carry them up to Nido Condores. First part of this trail is steep, but after the Cambio Pendiante it´s more comfortable. There are some tents on the edge in Cambio and big snow fields, but the trail pass them by. I meet many people from Argentina, Chile, US, Spain, England, Bohemia, Netherland. The weather is good, there is a little of snow and the summit does´t look like very far away from Nido. Nearly everyone has plastic boots and some expeditions are really big. I leave the things in Nido like day before. I do the check-in at ranger´s station and I go back. Return to Canada is very fast. There I meet one Japanese and Brazilien again – we forerun eachother for 4 days. I sleep at Canada, it´s magical place with great outlook down to the valley.  Wind blows all the night, but the morning is nearly cloudless.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
Day 26                    My headache is not worse in the morning, I take one pill and I continue. I become to be impatient, the summit is so close. Day distances are short, outlooks are great. . . and the trail goes off the bothersome long long valley. I have plenty of time and in the afternoon I am in Nido. Nido Condores (5500 m.) lies on large platform under the nortern summit. The trail makes great switchback to north through Berlin, but then go back and the Canaleta and last part is easy to be seen from Nido. By advice of Zbyňek I decide not to sleep in Berlin (6000 m.) and tomorow I try to go to summit. Therefore I walk up to Berlin in the evening to check the trail because I have to walk up this passage in dark in the morning then. I meet there the only  Russian of my journey. He checks the trail also. We are in elevation of 6000 m and I walk without the troubles. When I think and compere the Licancabur of the same elevation, now I feel like doing town lounge. There are more trails from Nido to summit, all go up, but there are no marks. Now I don´t anticipate how important is this my trail-check. Till now I have had the water from base camp, but now I must to melt down the snow of 6 liters of water during three hours. I sleep very bad, I have my sleeping bag full of equipment (clother, boots) not to get them freezed. It´s -6°C in the tent and -12°C outside in the morning. I have dreams of theft of my equipment through the night and I get awakened many times.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
Day 27                   I get  up later - at three o´clock after more time interrupted sleep and I leave Nido alone at four o´clock. It´s -12 °C, the sky is clear, the wind doesn´t blow and snow of Aconcagua is shimmering in the light of moon. There is silence everywhere, other probably have left already. The trail to Berlin I know from yesterday, I feel to be in good condition, without the retard I come to Berlin at six o´clock. There is -18°C on the thermometer hung on the wooden shelter. I walk up and the dark begins to dissapear, at Independecia (6300) I catch the first (or last) people. Sun is shining above the horizon, there is a pretty view to the distance – the mountains are everywhere, covered by snow, but all of them are lower. I rest for a while and I have to warm up my right foot with gas burner, because I´ve felt the cold since Nido. Now I feel better. We sit on wooden beams of demolished shelter and we enjoy the the day. All the people take the crampones, but the slope is not steep and there´s no risk of slip or fall. I leave at quarter past eight. After another 100-150 m of elevationwe we skip to northwest side of mountain, from where the Nido can be seen. Canaleta begins. It´s steep, in the middle I put the crampones on, otherwise the foots are sliping on the snow. Footpath is steep, but firm and steady, you can walk the pace you like. Small steps and regular breath. I am quite fast and I take more goups over. Everything down is tinny – Base camp and the mountains over B.c. – lost in the weavily landscape to horizon. I go alone a I come to big rock. In the right there is southern summit, but the trail turns left to higher northern summit. I do a break, I put the crampons off, the terrain is rocky. And this is the critical moment. The poor footpath doesn´t exit in real, it´s rocky slope or climbing. It extremly exhausting, foots are sliping and big exhausting steps are necessary. Next 100 meters of elevation bring me deep in fatigue. The summit is not far away, but it´s only the suffering from now. But other are in the same trouble, we take eachother about 3 meters. It´s betrayal of park rangers, they don´t keep te trail in good condition. Food and break don´t help, I go step by step, I have strange feeling in my head, I don´t want to go back. When I close my eyes I think to open them in the hospital of Mendosa. I have to stop every ten, every seven, every five steps. I know that I will stand on summit – but then? It is realy very close – last snowy slope, my steps are realy very short, I hear like in dream people talking on summit plateau. Last meters of rocky climbing. Then I swing up and it´s done. I stand on the summit of Aconcagua. On sixth day, after 10 hours from Nido. Nearly flat granite and snowless platform of size of handball play-ground with brass cross. Who wants to do the step higher, needs to cross the hemispfhere, everything is below us. But we can´t see it, beacause of clouds. Really no view. The weather becomes to be worse and it begins to snow. People are taking pictures, dressed in colorful goretex clothes, they put the hands over the head. It´s warm. I have just body-underwear, trouseres and shirt. And hut. I haven´t expected such a weather – I have all my warm clothes unused in my backpack. When the unspeakable joy recedes, I descend. It´s really snowing. I was pretty tired, but it´s much easier downhill. I join one Czech and we go together. But I feel fatigued, the foots are sliding on the snow and we can´t go fast. Graduelly there are 20-30 cm of new snow, through the fog we don´t see more than 30 m, but fortunately the wind is not strong. Until Independencia there is only one trail, but then it´s difficult to find direction, nor the trail. There are no rods and everything is covered by snow. We just guess the direction, we come to camp over Berlin, but I haven´t used this way uphill. We don´t find Berlin and we descend down the slope with one American from Michigan. The navigation by compass is inaccurate and we really don´t know where we are going. But fortunately thanks to my yestarday´s trail check I recognize the terrain and the trail and we come to plateau of Nido. There we find another man in orange goretex, absolutely lost, without any idea about the direction to camp. We come to Nido, but the fog is dense. But we could pass Nido by 100 m unknowigly. I am tired. I intended to descent to Base camp, but it´s impossible in this weather. My last power I wast in row with ranger about the trail-marking. But I don´t think it will be better then. But it´s marvelous – everything covered with 30 cm of snow like in winter. But it´s not marvelous for people who just have come today to Nido with plan of tomorow´s ascent. Most of them can forget about it. The snow can persist here a week. I am sorry about Japanese and Brasilian.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
Day 28                   The fog (or clouds) fling away during the night – I check it and it´s like in fairy-tell in the morning. Everything is glittering, shining in moonlight, the sky is cloudless. Whole the mountain is white. I pack my things quickly. I find out that I lost my camera with my photos of Aconcagua yesterday, when I put out my anorak from the backpack. That´s pitty, but I am happy not to get lost myself. I leave Nido and I hurry – in the eveninig I want to be in Mendosa. I descend the snow field to Cambio, then the snow-rocky terrain to Canada. I am quite tired and I walk slower. The snow ends in about the elevation of 4700 m. People in Base camp can´t imagine the conditions above. I was lucky in decission not to sleep in Berlin or aclimatise one day more. Very lucky. I leave everything unimportant in Base camp – food, gas cans – rife present for company, but I have to pay for soup anyway. I leave at two o c´lock. The last bus leaves at nine. I walk in a hurry – I do just two ten minutes breaks till Confuencia. There I decide not to do a switch back through Confuencia, but I walk down the river. There are some footsteps, I hope to shorten the way. There are some dangerous traverses but then I see that due to the big rock I can walk by the river. I have to ascend directly on hill, it´s high and not safe, but there is not another way – and I follow the footsteps again. I don´t recommend it. I come down to foot-path and I go faster and faster. I pass the entrance – I do the check-out and this last part I run in the dark with all my luggage. I want to leave like never before. I can´t get on, but there´s no help. The bus comes with delay of 30 minutes. I buy some bananas, but I am tired to death. It was terifying 45 km long descent. I meet Serbians in Punto Vacas, "naj sme živi i zdravi!" But I can´t talk to them, I sleep all the way. I wake up in Mendosa and I continue in my sleep in one-hour hotel close to bus station – no better choice at one o´clock in the morning.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         
Day 29                 I Feel pretty fine in the morning. Through the window I greet a naked girl doing pedicure. I am gonna stroll the streets of Mendosa. I am here third time, but after my succes on Aconcagua the green town is still more beautifull. I have the idea to go swim in the ocean. The journey do Viňa del Mar takes me the rest of the day. I pass snowy queen Aconcagua and I am happy to change the direction. Border check is quite long – X ray, dogs, papers – virtual amusement. The road climbs gradualy up in Argentina, then there is a tunnel, but after the border-office there is a deep valley and numerous switch-backs and the master-piece rail-road traverse the mountians with many bridges and tunnels. Then there is a dry valley with plenty of cactuses, villages, houses, ranches and cactuses again. It becoms to be hot and in warm evening we are rushing down the road to Viňa del Mar and ocean. That´s amasing. I get out in midnight. Hot tripes in sanwich I can eat everytime, but now I have a trouble with my mouth. It´s completly fissured from sunburn, that I´ve got during the two-hours descent on snow field. I had the hut, but I didn´t realised the effect of reflected sunlight. Eating hurts pretty much. Chile embraces with it´s prices, but I get an accomodation according to LP in the house of one odler lady. It´s very luxurious after two weeks of misery under the mountain.

Chile

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
Day 30                   This is the only day of my journey when I am not in hurry and I do everything slowly and with care. I wash my clothes, I eat as possible, I ramble the Viňa and I go beach. Rňaca, few minutes from Viňa, is perfect holliday village and the sandy beaches around are great - full of people, ocean with big waves and cold water, streets with high palms, ice cream, restaurants, sweetshop. . . In the evening I take the Turbus´s bus to Temuco and I get asleep on comfortable seat of semicama type, which is quite comparable to the old bed in my night-shift.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
31.deň                   Ráno ma budia v Temuco, ešte dezorientovaný vystupujem v hlavnom meste Araucánie, mesto so silným vplyvom Mapučskej kultúry, ktorá Španielom najdlhšej odolávala a ich odpor zlomili až v polovici devätnásteho storočia. Mesto bez zbytočne uchvacujúceho okolia, centrálnej autobusovej stanice a klobások z konského mäsa je nenápadné, s ošarpanými ulicami, tržnicou prepchatou indiánskymi suvenírmi. Tu vybavujem nevyhnutné veci, márne zháňam informácie o prístupnosti národných parkov a sopiek. Smer Villarica a odtial Pucón, dvojica príjemných rekreačných stredísk na brehoch jazera  Pucón s priezračnou vodou,  krásnymi plážami s čiernym pieskom, krásnymi ulicami a z dreva a kameňa postavenými hotelmi a kasínami. Okrem pláže bez psov (v Chile neobvyklé) je mojim hlavným cielom zasnežená, neustále dymiaca sopka Villarica. Podvečer vyrážam, najprv pešo, potom taxíkom – z mesta asi 7 km ku vstupu do národného parku. Tam trávim noc, ešte večer prichádza vela áut, ktoré idú západ slnka pozrieť z miesta ešte vyššie položenej stanice lanovky. V noci sa nad sopkou vznáša červený premenlivý oblak výparov, zospodu ožarovaných lávou. Keď sopka pred dvadsiatimi rokmi vybuchla, lávové splazy sa zastavili tesne pred Pucónom.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
32.deň                   Vstávam velmi skoro, k stanici lanovky lyžiarskeho strediska Villarica ma berie rodinka výletníkov. Na lanovku nečakám, beriem sa nahor, nad hlavou mi o chvílu prúdia davy doobliekaných vulkanológov. Hore sa rozprávam so sprievodcom o miestnych pomeroch, na Llaimu radí ísť z východu, lebo z juhu a západu je to o hubu. Tu však s istotou vystupujú desiatky turistov privezených mikrobusmi cestovných kancelárii a po rýchlokurze práce s cepínom sa vydávajú nahor. Prevažná väčšina výstupu ide snehovým chodníkom, ktorý na stúpajúcom slnku mäkne, výpravy v husacom rade helma za helmou idú nahor, s čakanmi vzorne hompálajúc pri boku. Počasie je nádherné, opar z kopcov sa dvíha, výstup je však dlhší než som predpokladal. Vrchná časť je bez snehu, na kráterovej hrane podla vetra pekelný smrad, ak zafúka smerom od krátera. Pôvodný zámer spať na vrchole som síce nezrealizoval, ďalší krát by som však neváhal, vstupné sa dá zaplatiť i cestou nadol. Kráter má asi 200 -300 metrov a pohlad nadol, kde strieka žeravá červená láva je jedinečný. Majstri fotografi so statívmi utierajú slzy zo sírnych výparov, zhlboka potom dýchajú, zábery erupcií však stoja za to. Ďalej možno perfektne vidieť vulkány ako Lanin, Quetruplán na východe, LLaima, Lonquimay, Tolhulaca na severe, Coshuenco, Tronador na juhu, Osorno je v oblakoch. Cesta nadol vedie po zadku vyšmýkanými toboganmi, kde sa zá nabrať celkom slušná rýchlosť, opäť k radosti uniformovaných zúčastnených výletníkov. Ďalšia cesta suťou nie je o nič ťažšia, za chvílu som medzi stromami s bielymi kmeňmi a zelenými korunami, cez ktoré presvitá Villarica. Údajne sa tu natáčal i nejaký prehistorický americký film. Nadol sa na dvakrát zveziem, vraciam rangerovi požičaný cepín (ktorý je vhodnejší ako mačky). Poobede oddychujem v Pucóne a s malou Čilankou sa túlame po meste. Navečer idem cez agentúru aj s Izraelcami do nedalekých prírodných termálnych bazénikov, kde do noci  užívame aquas calientes.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
33.deň                   Na ďalší deň trochu mením plán, v tejto oblasti sa mi velmi páči a vsádzam na NP Huerquehue – real qem of this area. LP niekedy lúbi preháňať, toto však vidieť treba. Kým ste neboli v araukáriovom lese, tak ste v lese vôbec neboli a váhať netreba. Mal som na to len 7 hodín, kým ma ďalší autobus neunášal ďalej na juh, ale vhodnejšie by boli 2 dni. Začíname nenápadnou lagúnou a entrádou so vstupným 7 dolárov, terén sa postupne okolo vodopádov a snových výhladov na zasnežený vn. Villarica dvíha na prah, za ktorým sú smaragdové lagúny obkolesený skalnými útesmi ponorenými do divokosti zelenej prírody, je to džungla mierneho pásma s ozrutnými stromiskami s kôrou bielou alebo ako lanami obmotanou, nad ktorými ešte dominujú machom porastené ozrutné Araukárie, ktoré Španieli volali aj dáždnikovité stromy. V rýchlosti sa kúpem s jednou Austrálčankou, nasávam teplo a vôňu lesa, čo sa šíri nad lagúnou, musím ale už bežať, lebo cesta volá. Zisťujem, že preto cestujem stále sám, lebo nikto sa tak neponáhla ako ja. Je to daň za krátky čas a to, že mám v merku tolko vecí, ktoré si nechcem odoprieť. Pucón Villarica, Lago Calafquen, Koňirape, Lago Panguipulli, Puerto Fui. Scenerická je cesta lokálnymi spojmi s rozpáranými sedačkami v spoločnosti miestnych ludí - s výhladom na sopky a jazerá z riek zahradených lávovými splazmi. V malej tmavej rybárskej dedinke Puerto Fui nocujem, posledný trajekt odišiel o šiestej.
                                                                                                                                    

Argentina

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
34.deň                   Ladovcové Lago Pirihueica nemožno prekonať inak, len trajektom - prvý odchádza o ôsmej. Jazero je tiché a krásne, hory okolo strmé, porastené lesmi. Na druhom brehu by som sa nespoliehal na autobusovú dopravu, po pár kilometroch je colnica s Argentínou, procedúra tu je v podstate blesková, po ňu argentínsky autobus možno chodí. Mňa berú ludia čo tade prechádzajú až do San Martin de los Andes – cez NP Lanin. Odhliadnuc od veľkých jazier kraj hodne pripomína Slovensko – husté lesy, zaoblené kopce a zelené lúky. San Marin je príjemné letovisko, v ktorom sa moc nezdržujem, krásnou cestou siedmych jazier (Ruta de los siete lagos), ktorá zodpovedá názvu, prichádzam do Villa Angostura – prepychovejšieho letoviska pri jazere Nahuel Huapi rovnomenného parku, len kúsok od Bariloche. Počasie je zlé, trekovať som tu ani neplánoval, nepodarí sa mi ale dostať sa ešte ten deň späť do Chile, lebo autobusy sú plné na dva dni dopredu a za 3 hodiny stopovania v striedavom daždi ma nikto nevzal. Aj keď nadávam ako pohan, všetko zlé je na niečo dobré, večer v pizzérii stretám neskutočného nemeckého cestovatela, ktorému kamaráta odviezli domov pre flebotrombózu a tak s velkým čiernym psom chodí krajinou, doslova chodí, lebo ho nikto nevezme so psom do autobusu. Za 3 týždne nachodil asi 850 km, je to čudák, žil 4 roky medzi severoamerickými indiánmi, precestoval Áziu, prestopoval Austráliu a teraz uvažuje, že sa vráti do Pucónu, kde s kamarátom rozbehnú bussines so snežnicami.